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Robert Groffier is a relatively new domaine when speaking of Burgundy. Started in the 1950s by Jules Groffier, it is now run by the third generation, Nicolas Groffier. Owning just under eight hectares, the domaine is located in Morey St. Denis but has holdings on both the north and south side of the village.
The vineyards are meticulously maintained and planted to clones rather than a massale selection and they graft onto 161-49 rootstock which brings more finesse and lower yields.
During harvest, up to 20% of the stems are retained, but this can vary by vintage. The grapes are moved to stainless steel vats and go through a cold soak prior to what most would consider a very hot fermentation, running up to 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Following fermentation, the wines are moved into barrel. The Bourgogne rouge (a parcel of 35-year-old vines just outside the Clos de Vougeot) sees no new oak, while the Village and Premier Crus are generally between 20-30% new oak.
The Grand Crus previously were aged in 100% new oak but that has been dialed back significantly in recent years. All the wines are bottled without fining or filtration. Both the Grand Cru Bonnes Mares and Chambertin Clos de Beze are more structured, driven by black fruit. The Premier Crus from Chambolle display classic red fruits and are always elegant and high toned, with the Amoureuses at the top. Neither the Haut Doix or Sentiers should be overlooked, however, especially from a value perspective.
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