Champagne Philipponnat • Berkeley And. Stuart

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Sub RegionMareuil-Sur-Ay
RegionChampagne
CountryFrance
ProducerChampagne Philipponnat

Introduction

In 1910, Pierre Philipponnat founded the house and began producing champagne, however, the history of Maison Phillipponnat as grape growers dates back to the 16th century. Still family run, the team's work in the vineyards is commendable, most done by hand, even still using horses for plowing. In the cellar, they keep their reserve wines in barrel and also generally use a fairly high proportion of these reserve wines in the non-vintage blends.

“One of the most glorious wines produced in all of champagne.”

Stylistically the wines are all generous, weighty and textured, owing in large part to them being fermented in oak of varying sizes. The wines maintain brightness throughout, coming from their low dosage levels. The range starts with their non-vintage, pinot noir-dominant Royal Reserve which shows the weight and texture expected. At the top is one of the most glorious wines produced in all of champagne, their crown jewel, the Clos des Goisses. This 5.5 hectare site from which this wine is produced was purchased in 1935 and has been produced as a single vineyard since. The site is unique, owing to its steep grade, purely chalk soils, and ability to ripen year in and year out. It is always based on pinot noir and chardonnay, though the cepage changes based on the character of the vintage. Maison Phillipponnat generally holds the wine for eight to ten years on the lees, with less than 5g/l of dosage. Clos des Goisses shows its pedigree in its youth, but with additional bottle age, it becomes a truly ethereal experience.

Location

Philipponnat, Clos des Goisses | Mareuil sur Ay, 1996
Champagne
Available
2
750
$599.00

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Robert Groffier is a relatively new domaine when speaking of Burgundy. Started in the 1950s by Jules Groffier, it is now run by the third generation, Nicolas Groffier. Owning just under eight hectares, the domaine is located in Morey St. Denis but has holdings on both the north and south side of the village.

Located in the town of Tadten, not far from the Hungarian border, Sattler is now run by the fourth generation of the family, Erich Sattler. Outside of some changes in the vineyards, he has kept the estate consistent with previous generations.

Perhaps the definition of cult California cabernet, Screaming Eagle is considered to be the Holy Grail among many collectors. The founders made what was essentially a hobby into one of the most collectible wines in the world.

When Jean Phillips bought original vineyard in 1986, it was already planted to a cabernet. From there, she added cabernet franc, merlot, and more cabernet sauvignon vines. When the vines came of age, Phillips reached out to Heidi Barret, a then up-and-coming winemaker in the valley, to produce the first wine for the 1992 vintage. The release gained significant acclaim, and the rest, as they say, is history.

Thierry’s journey to the Loire was not traditional. After moving from Bordeaux in the early 1990s, he immediately connected with Charly Foucault from Clos Rougeard. Buying in entirely into the practice of biodynamic, he not only converted his entire estate but also became of the biggest proponents the practice both in France and world wide.

Theirry works parcels in both Saumur (for his whites) and Saumur Champigny (for his reds). Thanks to time spent in the vineyard and his biodynamic dedication, he has been able to identify parcels by soil type to individually farm, vinify, and bottle.

Egon Müller is arguably the most legendary estate in Germany. Their family has owned the property since 1797 and they have produced some of the most sought-after and age-worthy wines in Germany’s history. They own almost one third of the Scharzhofberg vineyard, a Grand Cru equivalent and the crown jewel in the family’s holdings. The wines walk a razor's edge with an uncanny balance between the exotic spice and generous fruit as well as the laser focus and acidity.

For a very long time, the wines from Dönnhoff flew under the radar. Riesling in general took a back seat for many collectors, with only the some aware of the magic that happens when the sweet wines have bottle age. Thanks to the likes of Weingut Keller, Egon Muller, and many others, the collector market has awoken to the possibility of great Riesling. The wines from the Dönnhoff family certainly belong in that category. The family has been quietly farming and producing some of the most compelling from Germany, now considered a guiding light in their home region of the Nahe.

Located in the Kremstal on the edge of Senftenberg Mountain, the history of Weingut Nigl is clear when you first set eyes on the estate. Wine production only started in 1985 under the vision of Martin Nigl, while the family was farmers for 200 years prior.

In terms of German wine estates, Robert Weil is a relative newcomer. Established in 1875 in the heart of some of the best vineyards in the Rheingau, they made their home in the village of Kiedrich, an area known for its wine as early as 950 AD. The estate has significant holdings in some of the finest vineyards in the region, Turmberg and Gräfenberg in Kiedrich, which has further cemented its recognition beyond the international acclaim it receives for being in the Rheingau.

There is a fine line between decadence and laser-like finesse. The wines of Willi Schaefer walk that line, with a crystalline focus that seems next to impossible. The wines drink beautifully when young, but have the ability to age as well as any from Riesling.

A World Of Wine