Montevertine • Berkeley And. Stuart

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Sub RegionChianti
RegionTuscany
CountryItaly
ProducerMontevertine

Introduction

First inhabited in the 11th century as a rural defense fortress, the hilltop Montevertine was purchased in 1967 as a vacation home by Sergio Manetti. In an effort to produce wines for friends and family, he decided to plant two hectares of vineyards and build a small winery on the estate. With its first vintage, in 1971, the potential of Montevertine became clear, prompting Manetti to devote himself to producing wine full time. Manetti grew Sangiovese almost exclusively; he even left the Chianti Classico consortium due to their requirement of using Trebbiano. His wines, from then on, were simply labeled Rosso di Toscana, although they are the farthest thing from a Super Tuscan. The Montevertine wines are shining examples of the great heights that Sangiovese can reach when grown in Chianti Classico.

Generational

With the passing of Sergio Manetti, Giulio Gambelli (the winemaker) and Bruno Bini (the cellar master), the responsibility changed hands–Martino Manetti, Sergio’s son, and Paolo Salvi, who studied under Gambelli, dedicated themselves to continuing the work of the previous generation. The estate sits at 425 meters and has grown to 18 hectares, largely planted to Sangiovese along with a small amount of Colorino and Canaiolo. The three commercially produced wines on the estate are Pian del Ciampolo, Montevertine, and Le Pergole Torte. The vineyard is split into a number of parcels, with the oldest, Pergole Torte, planted in 1968.

The grapes are harvested by hand and then moved to large cement tanks for fermentation which lasts 25-30 days. The wine undergoes long, slow extractions with regular pump overs, with malolactic fermentation occurring in large cement tanks before being racked into large Slovenian Botti. Pergole Torte, which is only produced in exceptional vintages, is eventually racked into smaller French barrels for the last six months of aging.

These wines are all compelling, with a serious sense of place and should be considered among some of the best red wines in the world. They are consistent year in and year out, and belong in any serious collector’s cellar.

A Sense of Place

Pian del Ciampolo comes from a 1.5 ha parcel that was replanted in 2003, with a northeast exposure allowing for a long, cool growing season. The wine is mostly Sangiovese with a small amount of Canaiolo and Colorino blended in, and spends 18 months in the large Botti. Montevertine comes from a 2.5 ha parcel originally planted in 1982. The wine is comprised of 90% Sangiovese with 10% Canaiolo, and spends 24 months in large Botti.

Location

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Based on the current level of respect for the Rostaing wines, one would assume that they have been around for generations. In reality, the domaine was started just a few decades ago. Sort of.

When Rene Rostaing founded the estate in 1971, he was working as a notary. He continued his work while moonlighting as a winemaker until the estate grew to a size that could support him. He was lucky in that while he was not a winemaker, his uncle, the famous Marius Gentaz, was there to guide him over the years. He then married into the Dervieux family, adding Albert Dervieux as another shepherd along his winemaking journey. When both Gentaz and Dervieux retired their parcels, he purchased their vineyards, quickly putting him in the position of managing arguably the best dirt in the Northern Rhone.

You'd be hard-pressed to find a more iconic American winery than Ridge Vineyards. With a history dating back to 1962, they've changed very little since that first vintage. They are masters of making cabernet sauvignon and what is perhaps the most American grape, zinfandel. Their wines are elegant, with a clear sense of place, and are some of the most age-worthy wines produced in the United States. This legacy is largely due to Paul Draper, the legendary winemaker who held his position from 1969 until his retirement at the age of 80 in 2016. While Paul’s gift for winemaking was clear, it was his ability to let the sites he worked with shine by showing not just their terroir but also vintage character.

Robert Groffier is a relatively new domaine when speaking of Burgundy. Started in the 1950s by Jules Groffier, it is now run by the third generation, Nicolas Groffier. Owning just under eight hectares, the domaine is located in Morey St. Denis but has holdings on both the north and south side of the village.

Located in the town of Tadten, not far from the Hungarian border, Sattler is now run by the fourth generation of the family, Erich Sattler. Outside of some changes in the vineyards, he has kept the estate consistent with previous generations.

Perhaps the definition of cult California cabernet, Screaming Eagle is considered to be the Holy Grail among many collectors. The founders made what was essentially a hobby into one of the most collectible wines in the world.

When Jean Phillips bought original vineyard in 1986, it was already planted to a cabernet. From there, she added cabernet franc, merlot, and more cabernet sauvignon vines. When the vines came of age, Phillips reached out to Heidi Barret, a then up-and-coming winemaker in the valley, to produce the first wine for the 1992 vintage. The release gained significant acclaim, and the rest, as they say, is history.

Thierry’s journey to the Loire was not traditional. After moving from Bordeaux in the early 1990s, he immediately connected with Charly Foucault from Clos Rougeard. Buying in entirely into the practice of biodynamic, he not only converted his entire estate but also became of the biggest proponents the practice both in France and world wide.

Theirry works parcels in both Saumur (for his whites) and Saumur Champigny (for his reds). Thanks to time spent in the vineyard and his biodynamic dedication, he has been able to identify parcels by soil type to individually farm, vinify, and bottle.

Egon Müller is arguably the most legendary estate in Germany. Their family has owned the property since 1797 and they have produced some of the most sought-after and age-worthy wines in Germany’s history. They own almost one third of the Scharzhofberg vineyard, a Grand Cru equivalent and the crown jewel in the family’s holdings. The wines walk a razor's edge with an uncanny balance between the exotic spice and generous fruit as well as the laser focus and acidity.

For a very long time, the wines from Dönnhoff flew under the radar. Riesling in general took a back seat for many collectors, with only the some aware of the magic that happens when the sweet wines have bottle age. Thanks to the likes of Weingut Keller, Egon Muller, and many others, the collector market has awoken to the possibility of great Riesling. The wines from the Dönnhoff family certainly belong in that category. The family has been quietly farming and producing some of the most compelling from Germany, now considered a guiding light in their home region of the Nahe.

Located in the Kremstal on the edge of Senftenberg Mountain, the history of Weingut Nigl is clear when you first set eyes on the estate. Wine production only started in 1985 under the vision of Martin Nigl, while the family was farmers for 200 years prior.

In terms of German wine estates, Robert Weil is a relative newcomer. Established in 1875 in the heart of some of the best vineyards in the Rheingau, they made their home in the village of Kiedrich, an area known for its wine as early as 950 AD. The estate has significant holdings in some of the finest vineyards in the region, Turmberg and Gräfenberg in Kiedrich, which has further cemented its recognition beyond the international acclaim it receives for being in the Rheingau.

There is a fine line between decadence and laser-like finesse. The wines of Willi Schaefer walk that line, with a crystalline focus that seems next to impossible. The wines drink beautifully when young, but have the ability to age as well as any from Riesling.

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